After our first bush camp, we continued along the isolated stretch of the
Shoalwater coastline to Mackay. During this stage and many more remote areas to
come, connectivity by mobile phone or Internet has become nonexistent and our
only means of catching up with the real world has been through radio, mostly ABC
North Queensland. The talk back is quite enjoyable, and interesting on a long
drive, and a good way to find out what’s happening locally, such as weather and
events. The familiar introductory fanfare of the hourly ABC National News is
also a welcome sound and brings a forced silence to the cabin of the car so
that we can find out what’s been happening around Australia and the world.
We pushed through to Airlie Beach on the Whitsunday coast, not before
stopping to look at the massive coal terminal at Dalrymple Bay and then lunch
in the vibrant Mackay. Since we arrived in Queensland we have seen much of the
mining boom. Pipelines, railroads, open cut mines, road trains hauling ore and
lots of white utes with the orange flags flying high from the front bull
bar. The Dalrymple Bay Coal
Terminal is the foremost site for the stockpiling and loading of coal before
being shipped off overseas, mostly China. It was impressive to see the massive
stockpiles of coal and the 3.5 km long loading piers heading off into the
Pacific Ocean.
Airlie Beach had much promise for us as a really fun destination. Mostly
because of the very beautiful neighboring Whitsunday Islands, the Great Barrier
Reef, and surrounding tropical rainforest setting. Because of these things
Airlie Beach is a real adventure hub offering everything from skydiving, jet
skiing, scuba diving, white water rafting, as well as sailing and fishing. For this reason also Airlie Beach is a
major backpacker magnet, and while the setting is gorgeous the main street is
a bit gaudy and noisy and takes away from the real beauty of the place (says
the 40 something family man). So
for 3 days we settled into the 4.5 Star, Big 4 Caravan Park at Cannonvale, a
couple of km’s out of town.
Airlie Beach, Queensland |
A funny story for the Canberran readers. In our constant search for good
espresso coffee we stumbled onto a top little spot along a ritzy part of the
harbor. It was the simply best brew that we had had on the road and it was
strangely familiar. When we complemented the barista on how good the coffee she
said “Oh yes we have our beans specially roasted and sent up from Canberra”. I
was very quick to ask if it was Lonsdale Street Roasters, for which she
replied, “Yes”. Great to see the Berra being known for something other than its
public servants and politicians.
Our big treat in the Whitsundays was to go “Ocean Rafting” amongst the
islands. This involved jumping in an oversized and over powered rubber dinghy
with about a 20 other adventurous souls and speeding across the open ocean to
the islands to snorkel on the reefs, undertake a beach landing on Whitehaven
Beach and go for a short bush walk as well as view any whales that happen to be
in the area. The weather was perfect and a little chop on the water made for a
fun trip as we skipped and bounced our way across the tops of waves for the day
on the way to the various islands. While initially tentative, the kids took
well to the wind in your hair high speed boating and in particular as the
captain shook things up with wave jumping and 360’s.
Gorgeous Whitehaven Beach, Whitsunday Island |
The snorkeling was good with plenty of fish and reasonable visibility,
but the cold deep water and the tears from an initial attempt to get the kids
in the water, kept them firmly within the boat. No snorkeling for them today,
so Tamara and I made the most of it. The highlight was riding on the dingy as
it made its was off the ocean and up a shallow creek to land on Whitehaven
Beach, where we had lunch. The brilliant white sand of the beach is said to be
nearly pure silica. The azure blue water flowing from a winding creek as it
bisects the beach makes for one of those truly paradise moments. After a short
bushwalk we headed back to Airlie Beach, not before seeing a female humpback
whale and its calf. We had a great
day out, on a fun and really well organized tour and it was agreed that this
was the best experience of the trip so far. Two thumbs up for Airlie Beach.
Lunch on Whitehaven Beach |
Whitsunday Islands National Park, Queensland |
Next stop Lucinda, Mission Beach and Tully
Recommend:
Big 4 Adventure Whitsunday Resort
- Whitsunday Ocean Rafting
- Denman Cellars Beer Cafe