After being on the road for more than a month and covering some 5000 km
our run north up the east coast of Australia comes to an end in Cairns. We have
been fortunate enough to see and experience some gorgeous beaches and seaside
locations that are truly worthy of the title Paradise. Queensland has some real
gems on its coast many of which are tucked away out of the mainstream tourist
traps. I think its safe to say that we have been really enjoying ourselves (really,
how could you not) and become very settled with life on the road with the good
experiences far outweighing the little niggles and frustrations.
Its time to kick things up a notch though, and explore some of what Australia
is all about, the wide-open spaces of the outback, the iconic national parks
and an indigenous culture the depth of which is rarely see in Canberra all of
which are in the interior of the big island. That’s the positive description
but in reality this means long dusty corrugated roads, heat, flies, showerless
campsites, long drop toilets, ordinary coffee, road trains, expensive fuel,
mosquitoes, abusive locals and limited services (I write this with a smile). So
before we embarked on this stage of the trip and in true roughing it style we
took a break from the camper and rented a “cheap & cheerful” bungalow in Palm
Cove, an exclusive suburb in Cairns north. This would long be remembered as the
“holiday” part of our little adventure.
Cairns offered a whole raft of places to see, and experiences to have,
and so it made good sense to have a location from which to base ourselves from.
Palm Cove was simply perfect. Having limited knowledge of Cairns I booked a beach
bungalow on the web knowing only that Palm Cove was on the northern part of
town making it very central for our activities. By pure chance and much to our
delight the bungalow was 250m from one of the most exclusive and intimate beachfronts
in Australia. All the luxury resorts were there, Pullman, Peppers, Sebel, Grand
Mecure and Mantra. We were in none of these and although the agent referred to our
bungalow as cheap and cheerful it was 5 star to us coming out of our 2m x 6m
camper.
I wont go through everything that we did in Cairns, but in brief these
were the standout items:
·
Kuranda Scenic Railway – I took the kids on this
short historical railway trip from the city up through the tropical hinterland
backing Cairns, past waterfalls and wet tropics rain forest.
·
Kuranda Markets – After our train ride we
wandered through the various stalls of the touristy markets taking in a range
of sights, the cheap and nasty, the interesting, the weird, the alternative and
the downright cool. We finished off with a bushwalk through the rain forest and
picnic lunch by the Barron River on yet another superbly sunny day.
·
Cairns Esplanade and lagoon pool – Yet another
outstanding Queensland beachfront esplanade, complete with gardens, play
grounds, exercise trails, cafés and views over the water. Cairns throws in a
massive lagoon pool (free entry) to top their esplanade off. We spent a number
of hot afternoons along the esplanade and hanging by the lagoon. The afternoon finished
off with a Gelato and a stroll through the harbor checking out the
multi-million dollar yachts.
·
Atherton Table lands – By now you have
probably caught on that I don’t mind a decent coffee. Up in the Atherton
Tablelands above Cairns they grow many things including Coffee Beans. Mareeba
Coffee Works is an absolute must for the coffee nut. We indulged heavily one
afternoon on their best beans and a massive chocolate sampler plate.
·
The Daintree and Cape Tribulation – Due north of
Cairns is the World Heritage Listed Daintree Rainforest, renowned for its
amazing biodiversity and ancient rainforests (older and more diverse than the
Amazon apparently). We spent a day driving up to Cape Tribulation, where the
rainforest meets the ocean and wandered along the beach. We also went to the
Daintree Discovery Centre, which provided an informative look at the rainforest
and a chance to climb into the very top of the canopy. The kids seemed to
really enjoy this one.
Daintree Discovery Centre, Queensland |
Palm Beach sunrise, Queensland |
Lamb roast at the bungalow with friends |
The only negative thing about Palm Cove and our little bungalow was
facing the anticlimax as we repacked our little camper and drove off down the
road knowing that we probably leaving the high point of the trip and that
rougher, dustier and hotter times were ahead.
Next stop the Savannah Way.
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