Undara Lava Tubes

Coming off the high of Cairns we journeyed inland along a route known as the Savannah Way. This 3000km route links Cairns in the east with Broome in the west via a range of sealed highways, dirt roads and rough tracks. As the name suggests, the route transverses a broad corridor of Savannah vegetation running along the top of Australia. In doing so it links a number of localities and attractions that you would otherwise miss if travelling on the main highway.  We traveled only some of the Savannah Way but picked up some of its best attractions such as the Undara Lava Tubes, Karumba and Lawnhill National Park. This entry takes us from Cairns, up the Atherton Tablelands and down the Kennedy highway as far as Mt Surprise.

  

The reality of going from resort style living to the rawness of camping could not of been more abrupt with our first night back on the road spent at a “free” camp along the side of the Kennedy Highway not far from Ravenshoe. Archer Creek free camp was a pleasant enough spot but due to our late check in, limited sites were available and as a result we had to back the camper up along side the highway for the evening. It would have been all good had there been no traffic but that is unrealistic. The road was so close to our campsite that the pressure wave of air created by passing trucks easily penetrated the canvas of the camper making the bed awnings flap and sway. The associated sound of the passing semi-trailer trucks was also very unsettling as you could hear their growl a good kilometer away. Slowly but surely the sound of the wheels and the engine would build up and thunder by only metres away from our heads. While the kids slept well, the trucks rolled through the night at 1 or 2 an hour giving you just enough time to drift off before half waking for the next passing truck.

Not everybody was smiles about this campsite, Archer Creek, Queensland 

The Undara Lava Tubes is a cleverly marketed bush resort set on an old cattle station neighboring the Undara Lava Tube Conservation Area. We set up camp here for 3 nights to take in a range of activities. Lava tubes sounds dramatic, but in essence they are caves, which have formed through a totally different process to their limestone cousins. While the guided tour of the lava tubes was fascinating especially with our authentic Australian bush guide Steve it was all the other experiences that made for a great stay at Undara. Every night a bonfire was cranked up and a range of activities such as slide presentations; sing-alongs or story telling provided. One of the presentations was on Crocodiles. If we weren’t already paranoid about these “snapping handbags” this did not help the cause. The resort also had a great pool, which was handy as the weather was starting to turn hot, something we would have to get used to as we headed further west.

Undara Lava Tubes, Queensland

Good swimming to be had at Undara Lava Tubes, Queensland

Another highlight for me was to ride one of the walking tracks with a fellow cyclist that I had met earlier that was keen for a pedal. I stress that this was a walking track, not a cycling track but we really enjoyed ourselves navigating and maneuver the bikes through the rocky and undulating 12km circuit. In doing so we made access to some great lookouts and travel through some relatively remote territory on the property. In what’s becoming my trademark “cycling near misses”, our little exploration became dicey when the sun got lower and we (I) miss-judged the distance. We had no lights and no maps, just a faint trail and blue markers in trees to indicate the way in the slowly diminishing light. As we were under pressure to get home before sun down we often found ourselves losing the markers and in turn the trail. The trail completely disappeared a number of times and a sense of nervousness started to creep in. It wouldn’t have been fatal if we got lost, but it would have been highly embarrassing. But we kept at it, backtracking if we needed and making it home just as the sunset. It was a technical and exhilarating ride but a little nerve racking at the same time.

Up to my old tricks exploring Undara, Queensland

I write this blog as my own record and also to keep family up with our movements. It’s important then to mention how everybody else is travelling and not just my own experiences. Over the next couple of entries I will give my take on how everybody in the family is fairing, with Tamara covered in this one.

Good bushwalking to be had at Undara Lava Tubes, Queensland 

Tamara is no stranger to touring and roughing it with an impressive list of adventure travels and all that it brings including hiking in South America and touring through Africa. That said she would happily admit she enjoys the comforts, convenience and privacy of home life. As do I. While we have both talked about an extended camping trip around Australia for quite some time I am the one responsible for pushing the idea. In this regard Tamara has been gracious enough to support the endeavor, fully knowing that we will be on the road a long time, living within the relative close confines of each other and away from many of the comforts of home.  That said she also sees the value in this trip in terms of the kid’s development and the opportunity for all of us to see places and have experiences that we have only dreamed of.

Long term camping and touring is rewarding and exciting but it can be repetitious and absolutely exhausting. While we are enjoying the trip immensely, the journey has tested both our patience, but in true Tamara fashion when things turn tough she just grits her teeth and gets on with the job. One night we found ourselves in a slight spot of bother when at 3am it started to rain. Not expecting the rain we had left almost everything out in the open. You can imagine the almighty rush then in the wet and the dark to get it all under cover as well as pop out the bed flys so that we remain dry and mud free.  There was no moaning, no swearing and no panic, just the super efficient re-stowing of clothes and boxes, the folding of chairs and the zipping up of windows all lead by her. We returned to bed and were back asleep nearly as quickly as we had risen, with the job complete and no fuss and no complaining.

Having found her feet and getting to know the ins and outs of the camper Tamara is “all over it” and very much making me look amateurish. She has been an outstanding cook, with a knack for making something interesting and delicious from very little ingredients; there have been very few humble sausage sandwiches on this trip! She has also been great with keeping the schoolwork up to kids, which has been great to watch and very important as they are out of school for the whole term. Above all though she has not held back in throwing herself into the trip and with all of its different experiences including the uncomfortable, difficult and dirty ones. We both share a common drive to get amongst it and squeeze the very best out of our time on the road, even when the going gets a little tough. This in turn has made the travelling together all the more easier and enjoyable and for that I’m grateful.

Next stop Gulf Country, Mt Isa and Lawnhill NP